Why this matters
Buying a stolen phone can cost you twice. You lose the money you paid, and the phone can stop working on your network if the real owner has it blacklisted. You may also be asked to hand it over if the police trace it. A few minutes of checking before you pay is worth it.
In South Africa, when a phone is lost or stolen, the owner reports it to the South African Police Service (SAPS) and gets a case number. They then give that case number and the phone’s IMEI number to their network, which can blacklist the device. A blacklisted phone may still switch on and work on Wi-Fi, so it can look perfectly fine at a meet-up. The problem only shows up when you put your SIM in.
Step 1: Find the IMEI yourself
The IMEI is the phone’s unique 15-digit identity number. Don’t rely on a number the seller sends you in a message. Check it on the phone in front of you:
- Dial
*#06#on the phone. The IMEI appears on screen. Dual-SIM phones show two IMEI numbers. - On an iPhone you can also find it in Settings › General › About. On Android it’s usually under Settings › About phone, though the exact menu varies by brand.
- Compare it with the sticker on the original box and the IMEI on the receipt or contract, if the seller has them.
If the numbers don’t match, walk away. A mismatched box is one of the most common signs that something isn’t right.
Step 2: Ask for proof of ownership
Ask for the original proof of purchase: a till slip, invoice or contract document. None of these is a guarantee on its own, because boxes and slips can be faked, but a genuine owner selling their own phone usually has at least something. A seller who has no box, no slip, no contract and a vague story about where the phone came from is a seller to avoid.
Step 3: Ask a network to check the IMEI
There is no single free, official public website in South Africa where anyone can type in an IMEI and see whether it’s blacklisted. What you can do is ask a network. Cell C’s own FAQ, for example, says you can call 084 135 or email them with an IMEI and they will check whether the device has been blacklisted. Other networks’ processes differ, so call your own network and ask what they can check for you.
You’ll also find paid IMEI-checking websites online. They vary a lot in what data they actually have, and a “clean” result from one of them doesn’t prove a phone isn’t blocked on South African networks. Treat them as one data point at most, never as a guarantee.
Step 4: Test it with your own SIM
Before you pay, put your own SIM card in. Make a call, send an SMS and switch Wi-Fi off to check that mobile data works. If the phone shows no signal or “SIM not supported” while your SIM works in your own phone, don’t buy it.
Be aware that this test only tells you about today. If a phone is reported stolen after you buy it, it could be blocked later, which is why knowing who you’re buying from matters as much as the checks themselves.
Step 5: Make sure it isn’t locked to someone else’s account
Modern phones have anti-theft locks tied to the owner’s account. A phone that is still locked to someone else is often useless to you, even if it isn’t blacklisted.
- iPhone: Apple says not to buy an iPhone that has Activation Lock turned on. If you see an “iPhone Locked to Owner” screen, or setup asks for the previous owner’s Apple Account, it’s still linked to them. Ask the seller to sign out and erase it in front of you.
- Android: Google’s Factory Reset Protection means that after a reset, the phone asks for the previous Google Account or screen lock. If you can’t get past that screen, you can’t use the phone. Ask the seller to remove their Google Account and reset the phone while you watch, then set it up with your own account.
A seller who says they “forgot the password” or will “send the code later” is a serious red flag.
Red flags that should stop the sale
- The price is far below what the same model normally sells for.
- No box, no slip, no contract, and no clear story about where it came from.
- The IMEI on the phone doesn’t match the box or paperwork.
- The seller won’t let you test it with your own SIM, or rushes you.
- The phone is still locked to an Apple or Google account.
- The seller will only meet somewhere dark or isolated, or wants a deposit before you’ve seen the phone.
If you think you’ve bought a stolen phone
Stop using it and report it to your nearest SAPS station with whatever you have: the seller’s details, messages, the listing and proof of payment. If you paid by EFT, contact your bank as soon as possible too.