Before you meet
- Get the exact model name and specs (processor, RAM, storage) from the seller, and look up what that model normally sells for second-hand.
- Ask for a photo of the serial number sticker and of the laptop switched on.
- Ask why they’re selling and whether it has ever been repaired.
- Plan to meet somewhere with a plug point and Wi-Fi, and give yourself at least 20 to 30 minutes to test it.
1. Look it over properly
- Open and close the lid a few times. Hinges should be firm, not loose or creaking.
- Check the body for cracks, especially near the hinges and ports.
- Put it on a flat table. If the base rocks, the trackpad is raised, or the lid no longer closes flat, the battery may be swelling. Don’t buy it.
- Check the screen on a white and a dark background for dead pixels, lines, bright patches or pressure marks.
2. Make sure it boots without a password you don’t have
If the laptop asks for a BIOS or firmware password before it even starts, walk away. These can be difficult to remove. The same goes for a Windows or macOS login the seller “can’t remember”.
On a Mac, check for Activation Lock. Hold the Option key, click the Apple menu and choose System Information. On Macs that support Activation Lock (Apple silicon, or Intel with a T2 chip), Hardware Overview shows an “Activation Lock Status” line. It should say Disabled. If it’s enabled, the Mac is still tied to the previous owner’s Apple Account.
Also be wary of ex-company laptops that are still enrolled in the company’s device management. Signs include messages that the device is “managed by your organisation”, or a remote management screen during setup. Ask the seller directly.
3. Check the specs match the ad
On Windows, open Settings › System › About to see the processor and RAM, and check storage in File Explorer. On a Mac, use Apple menu › About This Mac. While you’re there, check that the serial number shown matches the sticker on the bottom of the laptop.
On Windows, look at Settings › System › Activation to see whether Windows is activated.
4. Check battery health
A tired battery is one of the most common hidden costs on a used laptop.
- Windows: open Command Prompt or PowerShell and run
powercfg /batteryreport. It saves an HTML report and tells you where. Compare “Full charge capacity” with “Design capacity”: the lower the full charge capacity is compared with the design capacity, the more the battery has worn. - Mac: hold Option, click the Apple menu, choose System Information and select Power. You’ll see the cycle count and the battery’s condition.
Then unplug the charger and use it for a while to see that the battery percentage drops at a sensible rate and doesn’t suddenly cut out.
5. Test everything you’ll use
- Every key on the keyboard, including the keyboard backlight if it has one. Opening a text document and typing each key works well.
- The trackpad: clicking, scrolling and two-finger gestures.
- Every USB, HDMI and headphone port. Bring a flash drive and earphones.
- The charger: make sure it charges the laptop and is the right wattage for the model.
- Wi-Fi and Bluetooth: connect to a network and pair a device.
- Webcam, microphone and speakers: a quick video call test covers all three.
6. Let it run for a while
Play a video or open several browser tabs for 15 to 20 minutes. Listen for a fan that roars constantly or rattles, and feel whether the base gets unusually hot. Watch for freezes, crashes or random restarts.
If the storage is a concern, free tools such as CrystalDiskInfo on Windows can read the drive’s own health status. Treat it as a quick indication, not a full diagnosis.
7. Before you pay
- Ask the seller to sign out of their accounts and reset the laptop, so you can set it up with your own account.
- Ask for the original receipt, if they have it, and make sure the serial number matches.
- Get the seller’s full name and keep your chat history and proof of payment.
- Only pay once you’re happy. If anything doesn’t add up, walk away.